A week has passed since I first arrived in Addis Ababa and already I have seen an ancient kingdom standing at the edge of modernity. Bole, in particular, is a street where all things come together and the evolution of this culture can be seen. Barefoot peasants beg for money while young men and women rush by in suits. Merchants care for their kiosks, while luminescent lights tower over the westernized markets. Donkey-drawn gharries and bleating goats put along next to taxis and young men calling out destinations to lure pedestrians onto their private minibuses. Eucalyptus trees, firs and acacia stand tall on the outskirts of the city, but stumpy palm trees are manicured into place, planted equidistant along the uneven cement sidewalks and dirt drains. Corrugated tin and Cl sheeting blankets the city of one-storey mud, thatch and clay homes interrupted only by concrete office spaces, cafés and restaurants. Main thoroughfares like Bole are drawn into dusty side roads. Unpaved and full of pocket holes, these roads are lined with wrought-iron gates and concrete walls dividing the haves from the have-nots.
This is a city of landmarks, where the streets have no name and the best map is the one found is your minds eye... It can be a struggle at times when you are trying to retrace your steps, searching for the faint memories of yesterday’s sights.
Near the intersection of Bole and Ethio-China (landmarks in and of themselves), there is a hidden gem of quiet ambience and delectable food. From the main street, the sign reads “Rodeo” and the image of a western cowboy taking the reigns of his horse reveals a man’s kind of place. However, the restaurant itself is a bit off the path and secluded from the city bustle and cacophony of cars. Rodeo is a modern saloon, with Eucalyptus tables and benches shaded under a canopy of trees. Cowboy paraphernalia hangs from the exposed wood walls, and a faux stream of water trickles in behind. The menu is the best part, with its eclectic mix of Western and Ethiopian food, for locals and “forenges” (Amharic for foreigner) alike. The Salads are refreshing and safe, doused in vinaigrette, and a source of unexpected greenery in a city where you are warned to avoid anything uncooked from the land. Next, the doro and tuna wot is delectable – I recommend everyone try this! Red chicken or tuna curry is cooked in Ethiopian peppers. The meat is then poured onto a crepe-like injera and soaked with layers of curried injera. This is one of my favorite dishes because it is easy to scoop up with your fingers. My mouth is watering just thinking about this dish.
Until next time..
Krystie Babalos
