Early morning the church hymns echo. The voice of an Amharic singer floats through the city beckoning Orthodox Christians to join in prayer for St. Abo’s celebration. Listening to the howling dogs, melodic sermons and the grinding of construction has become my morning’s routine. However, this morning is unique because Helina, our friend and house-owner, has invited us to join her in breaking fast and celebrating St. Abo. We walk only a few miles away to find an alley that opens up onto a hidden church adorned with images of Mary, Jesus and other saintly beings. All around is an open terrace and we walk amidst a sea of women and children covered in traditional white headscarves – a symbol of purity and humane same-ness. Men stand at the outskirts in their Sunday Best; some enter the church by making a cross with their fingers.
We prayed for hours outside the walls until finally Helina led us inside the belly of the church – which was a flood of white figures clapping and chanting lalala in unison to the beat of large African drums and a singing Priest. We swayed with the crowd and joined in drinking blessed water for the sake of Jesus. From seeing the thousands of people that attend everyday, I realize now how pivotal the Church is in uniting people from across Addis in ritual ceremony. In light of growing urbanization - where overcrowding, displacement and the struggle for limited resources reigns – Church and the hope it brings is a sanctuary for all.
While Ethiopia is the second most populated nation within Africa with 77.1 million inhabitants, over 16% live in urban areas (Central Statistics of Ethiopia, 2006). This surge of urbanization outpaces even a developed countries ability to plan and strategize accordingly. Addis Ababa, in particular is one of the most alluring urban centers and has already started to experience some of the consequences. For example, mass overcrowding in the Kebeles is rampant and inadequate housing and waste disposal systems run-off through side streets and makeshift drains. Overburdened health centers help hundreds of thousands of people with only a few doctors and nurses on deck. A burgeoning generation of youth face shortages in job opportunities. This is a constantly evolving city and I can even feel it moving outward, expanding through the forest and into the agricultural lands.
As part of my work with the Canadian Urban Institute in Addis, I am to observe this phenomenon in the Kebeles and be part of the planning solution. Ethiopia has released another 5-year poverty reduction plan - the Growth & Transformation Plan (GTP) – and continues with two lofty but exciting goals: (1) an Eco-City/KIP urban upgrading program, and (2) Business Process Re-engineering (BPR) that will redesign the city government’s processes and institutional performance. My role has just begun. I am now looking at ways to assess and strengthen this institutional capacity and I have my first meeting on Monday. I will keep you posted. Wish me luck..
Krystie Babalos
